MILTON-FREEWATER — The end product looks beautiful in the bottle and can charm the palate, Scott Nokleby said, but owning a winery is still farming in every way.

The physical labor, the weather worries, the costs of fuel and fertilizer, the management of a crop — it all says agriculture, Nokleby pointed out.

In 2022, Scott and Vicki Nokleby opened Mongata Estate Winery, set in the base of the alluvial fan and basalt layers that mark the transition from Oregon’s Blue Mountains to the Walla Walla Valley.

The starting mark came in 2020, after Scott left a career as an insurance broker and Vicki said goodbye to selling real estate.

For about a decade the couple had been looking for a new land, so to speak, when the 29 acres on the South Fork of the Walla Walla River caught their eye.

This ground grew fruit trees for decades; about 25 years ago an evolution to wine grapes began.

The site checked all the boxes, Vicki explained in late June of 2023.

“We’re a blended family and we both wanted to have a place for our families. Second, we wanted to be part of this valley, to offer great experiences to others.”

Most of all, Scott added, “we wanted to heighten agricultural awareness.”

A challenging place to grow grapes

Indeed, farming skill plays the biggest, if understated, role in the wine world.

Especially in Mongata’s “Resurgent” vineyard of nearly 18 acres.

Adjacent to the South Fork of the Walla Walla River, the area presents unusual challenges for growers but also offers certain gifts.

The surrounding steep canyon walls can restrict air exchange and Resurgent receives less sunlight and heat than vineyards in the broader expanse of the Walla Walla Valley.

That’s not a problem for several of the wine grape varietals planted at Mongata, Vicki pointed out.

“The unique characteristics of this vineyard make this such a great site for syrah,” she said. “The cabernet franc loves it, as well. Actually, all of our vines seem to be pretty happy and produce terroir-driven fruit very nicely. Higher elevation, minerality, winds and the Walla Walla River all contribute to nice acid-sugar balances that give the wines unique flavor.”

Wine grapes are irrigated for certain production effects and to control the growth of the host plant. That changes in land that is sub-irrigated by a river, the Noklebys said.

The vineyard team waters only as needed, “and do our best to keep the vigor where it’s needed when it is extremely hot and plants need sun protection. …” Vicki said.

This labor-intensive plan pays off, she added.

“The terroir here creates fruit that can maintain the acid balances longer. The unique minerality creates its own personality and this translates into exciting wines for the palate.”

Stories told in flavor

Indeed, the Noklebys count on the “wine to tell the story,” according to Mongata’s marketing.

Speaking most loudly right now is the syrah. Boasting a balanced body, the notes of the wine fill the mouth before a light pepper finish kicks in.

The syrah seems a great fit for this vineyard, Vicki said, noting the cab franc is also “very popular” at the moment.

“It loves it here and has become Scott’s current favorite,” she said.

The couple are looking forward to bottling the Sonoma varietal of chardonnay they’ve grafted in, as well as the upcoming viognier.

In March, Mongata bottled its first blend of estate cabernet and estate syrah grapes. Called “Voice of the Vineyard,” the blend will always be a story of its particular harvest year, Vicki said.

Recovering from the flood

There’s much to tell about wine grapes harvested in 2021, the year after the historic flood of 2020 swept over this pocket of Northeastern Oregon.

Not only did the Walla Walla River jump its bed in many locations, it saturated the ground and left behind large rock bars.

An entire block of vines was given back to the river when it swept through, the Noklebys recalled.

Yet the flood was just another chapter in farming, Vicki said.

When the surge had receded, it was time to clean up and assess the damage, which was less than they feared, she added.

As soon as they could, the newly minted winery owners, assisted by their children, dove into restoring the neglected, century-old barn on the property.

Creating a premier wine experience

Through Scott’s craftsmanship and Vicki’s design knowledge, the Noklebys created salon-style seating vignettes throughout the space. They added a cold room, kitchen, lab and storage, as well as a dish room — captained on this day by daughter, Bella Lowell, home from Whitworth University for the summer.

Work moved outside to pour sculpted patio sections, defined by plants, shade structures and abundant seating. Design decisions were based on providing farm-style comfort, Vicki noted.

The tasting areas, inside or out, can host small weddings, live music, family and friend gatherings and class reunions.

The business offers wine tastings Thursday-Sunday and vineyard picnics. Reservations are strongly encouraged over walk-ins to ensure service.

“That’s because we are a farm first and winery second,” Scott said.

“I think Mongata has a beautiful future,” Vicki said.

“The Walla Walla Valley wine industry and community has graciously welcomed us; guests sweetly make us happy with wine purchases and our family is growing into the place with joy.”

They hope to be a premier destination for a quality wine experience, she said.

The word Mongata is the Noklebys’ twist on a Swedish word — Mångata — which means “moon street or path of the moon.”

The light of the moon over the Oregon vineyard captures the essence of the magical experience offered here, Vicki said.

The owners are not unaware that getting to this mystical place is a drive of about 5 miles from town, in the opposite direction from other Walla Walla Valley wineries.

The journey, however, is like a time warp, transporting people from their everyday worries to a place of respite, Vicki said.

“We say ‘It’s worth the drive.’ ”

81760 S. Fork, Walla Walla River Road, Milton-Freewater

541-861-9485

mongatawinery.com

“The Walla Walla Valley wine industry and community has graciously welcomed us; guests sweetly make us happy with wine purchases and our family is growing into the place with joy.”

— Vicki Nokleby, Mongata Estate Winery